Asscher Cut Diamonds: Should You Choose Lab-Grown or Natural?

There is something inherently elegant about an Asscher cut diamond. Its striking symmetry, stepped facets, and geometric clarity draw the eye not with fire, but with depth. It is a shape that speaks softly yet with authority, evoking the refinement of a bygone era while fitting seamlessly into the wardrobes of modern romantics. For couples in the UK searching for the perfect engagement ring, this cut offers a distinct alternative to more common choices. But beyond its visual charm lies a question of origin. Should you choose a lab-grown or a natural Asscher diamond?

This article explores that decision from every angle. It begins with the story of the cut itself, then moves into design options, followed by a clear-eyed comparison of natural versus lab-created stones. The aim is not just to inform but to help you choose a diamond that reflects your values and vision of beauty.

The Asscher Cut: A Shape Steeped in Style and Story

The Asscher cut carries the architectural precision of Art Deco and the brilliance of engineering. It was first created in 1902 by Joseph Asscher, the same master craftsman entrusted with cutting the world’s largest diamond, the Cullinan. Unlike the more rounded sparkle of brilliant cuts, the Asscher offers a structured, clean aesthetic defined by its unique step-cut faceting.

A Distinctive Design

The classic Asscher cut is square with clipped corners, giving it an almost octagonal appearance. These shapes are defined by large, open facets arranged like staircases, creating the famous “hall of mirrors” effect. This optical illusion offers bold flashes of light and depth rather than the intense sparkle associated with round brilliant cuts.

This cut also features a high crown and deep pavilion, which elevate its face-up appearance and contribute to its stately character. For those drawn to geometry, clarity, and balance, it is a compelling choice. Notably, its wide table allows viewers to peer into the stone, meaning clarity becomes a central focus. Inclusions, even subtle ones, are more visible here than in brilliant-cut stones.

Royal Refinement

While the original Asscher cut features 58 facets, the later Royal Asscher Cut introduced in 2001 has 74. Developed by Edward Asscher, this updated version heightens the brilliance of the original without abandoning its clean Art Deco lines. The Royal Asscher is exclusive to the Royal Asscher Company and commands a premium due to its patent protection and enhanced light performance.

Whether you choose the classic or Royal version, both share a design that merges vintage glamour with modern elegance. For those who appreciate history, craftsmanship, and clean lines, it is a cut with few equals.

Why the Asscher Cut Appeals to Modern Buyers

Engagement rings are not merely accessories. They are deeply personal symbols. Choosing the Asscher cut is often a decision rooted in a desire for something that feels both timeless and unique.

A Taste for Structure and Clarity

Those who favour the Asscher cut often do so because of its symmetry, elegance, and calm brilliance. It is particularly attractive to people who admire vintage aesthetics and architectural design. Rather than chasing maximum sparkle, they value the clean visual pathways that lead into the stone, inviting contemplation.

Clarity is central to this appeal. The large, open facets of an Asscher cut place its interior on full display. For this reason, higher clarity grades are more important than in other cuts. While a round brilliant may hide imperfections, the Asscher reveals them. It is a diamond cut for the confident and the considered.

Versatility Across Styles

The Asscher cut adapts beautifully to a range of ring settings:

1. Solitaire settings, especially in platinum, allow the cut to take centre stage. The cool tones of platinum complement the crisp geometry, while the minimal design highlights the diamond’s step facets.
2. Halo settings offer a more glamorous approach. A frame of smaller diamonds around the central Asscher increases its visual size and adds sparkle without compromising the clean geometry.
3. Three-stone rings add narrative depth. With side stones symbolising past and future, the Asscher cut becomes the elegant present in a love story.

Its versatility, from minimalist to ornate settings, makes the Asscher cut an ideal candidate for those wishing to blend heritage with personal style.

The Lab-Grown Revolution: New Origins, Same Beauty

In recent years, lab-grown diamonds have moved from fringe to mainstream, and nowhere is this more evident than in UK engagement ring markets. Increasingly, buyers are considering lab-created options not only for ethical and environmental reasons but also because they offer extraordinary value.

What Makes a Diamond Lab-Grown?

Lab-grown diamonds are real diamonds. They share the same crystalline carbon structure, chemical composition, and optical behaviour as natural diamonds. The difference lies solely in their origin. Rather than forming deep underground over billions of years, they are grown in laboratories using advanced technology that replicates natural conditions.

There are two primary methods of lab diamond creation: High Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) and Chemical Vapour Deposition (CVD). Both methods produce stones that are chemically and physically identical to those extracted from the earth.

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) confirms this equivalence. In fact, most consumers and even some jewellers cannot visually distinguish between lab-grown and natural diamonds without specialised equipment.

Why Buyers Choose Lab-Grown Asscher Diamonds

Several compelling reasons are driving the rise of lab-grown Asscher diamonds:

1. Affordability: On average, lab-grown diamonds cost 30 to 70 per cent less than natural diamonds of comparable quality. This cost difference allows buyers to afford a larger carat size or a higher clarity grade, especially important for a cut that showcases internal purity like the Asscher.
2. Ethical Assurance: Lab-created diamonds are inherently conflict-free. Their traceable production process avoids the environmental and social concerns historically associated with some forms of diamond mining. For ethically minded couples in the UK, especially those seeking ethical engagement rings, lab-grown options offer clarity of conscience along with brilliance.
3. Environmental Considerations: Lab-grown diamonds do not require the extensive land disruption associated with traditional mining. However, it is worth noting that their environmental benefit depends on the energy sources used during production. Diamonds created with renewable energy have a significantly lower carbon footprint than those produced in coal-powered facilities.

Points to Consider

Despite their advantages, lab-grown diamonds come with considerations:

1. Resale value is typically lower. Due to continuing advances in lab diamond technology, production costs are falling. This means lab-grown diamonds do not currently hold their value in the same way natural diamonds might.
2. Perception: Some still view natural diamonds as more romantic or prestigious, owing to their age, rarity, and traditional place in engagement ring history. For others, the transparency and modern ethos of a lab-grown stone feel more aligned with their values.
3. Certification: Lab-grown diamonds are commonly graded by the International Gemological Institute (IGI), though GIA has recently expanded its grading of lab diamonds as well. When comparing stones, ensure certification comes from a reputable body and that you are comparing stones graded by the same institution.

The Charm of Natural Asscher Diamonds

Something deeply poetic about a natural diamond remains. Formed over billions of years under extreme pressure and temperature within the Earth’s mantle, each stone represents a geological miracle. For some buyers, this provenance imbues natural diamonds with a sense of timelessness that no laboratory can replicate.

Rarity and Romanticism

Natural Asscher cut diamonds are particularly rare. Due to the shape’s need for high-clarity rough, only a small fraction of mined diamonds are suitable for this cut. This makes each natural Asscher not only visually distinct but also geologically exceptional. Their scarcity adds to their perceived value, especially among collectors and those looking to invest in heirloom-quality jewellery.

Moreover, the narrative surrounding a natural diamond’s formation often enhances its emotional appeal. When gifted or worn, it becomes more than a symbol of love—it is a testament to nature’s endurance and beauty.

The Case for Investment

While diamonds are rarely advisable as short-term financial investments, natural diamonds, particularly those with rare characteristics, have historically retained better value than their lab-grown counterparts. This is due in part to finite supply and longstanding consumer preference. A well-cut, high-quality Asscher diamond may not appreciate dramatically, but it is more likely to hold a portion of its value over time than a lab-grown equivalent.

This potential for lasting value can be an important factor for those considering long-term significance or passing a ring down through generations.

Ethical Sourcing: What Buyers Should Know

Ethical concerns about mined diamonds are legitimate and complex. However, many improvements have been made within the natural diamond industry. Initiatives such as the Kimberley Process aim to eliminate the trade in conflict diamonds, while some jewellers now offer GIA Origin Reports, which verify a diamond’s geographic source.

Working with jewellers who provide traceable sourcing and transparency is essential for UK buyers prioritising ethical standards. Some also offer recycled natural diamonds, which avoid new mining altogether and offer a highly sustainable option.

Comparing Lab-Grown and Natural Asscher Diamonds

Understanding the distinctions between these two options is crucial. Both offer identical beauty and structure, but their stories, costs, and implications differ. The table below provides a side-by-side comparison to assist with your decision-making process.

This comparison highlights that there is no one-size-fits-all answer. Rather, the right choice depends on what you value most in a diamond—whether that be ethical clarity, investment potential, or symbolic resonance.

Practical Buying Advice for UK Consumers

Where you purchase your Asscher cut diamond and from whom matters. Whether lab-grown or natural, it is essential to deal with a reputable jeweller offering clear documentation and fair policies.

Where to Shop

1. Hatton Garden in London remains a trusted destination for bespoke engagement rings, with a range of natural and lab-grown Asscher diamonds available.
2. Online specialists such as Queensmith, Taylor & Hart, and Brilliant Earth provide strong selection, certification, and transparent sourcing.
3. For Royal Asscher stones, you may wish to enquire directly through the Royal Asscher Company or its authorised UK stockists.

What to Check Before Buying

1. Certification: Always insist on a grading report from IGI or GIA.
2. Return policy: Look for at least a 14-day return window, particularly for online purchases.
3. Warranty: A guarantee against manufacturing defects, usually for five years or more, is advisable.
4. Clarity and symmetry: Prioritise these over carat size in an Asscher cut.

For clarity grades, opt for VS2 or better. Colour grades in the G to H range typically offer the best balance of visual whiteness and value. Confirm symmetry grades of Very Good or Excellent, as poor symmetry will compromise the cut’s optical appeal.

Making the Choice: What Your Diamond Says About You

There is a quiet power in the Asscher cut. Whether lab-grown or natural, it reflects a personality that values clarity, structure, and elegance. But the decision between a laboratory origin and an Earth-born gem speaks to something even deeper.

Are you drawn to the romance of geological time? The idea of something ancient, rare, and storied? Then a natural Asscher diamond may be right for you.

Or do you find inspiration in technology and ethics, choosing materials that reflect modern values and innovation? In that case, a lab-grown Asscher is a meaningful and stylish choice.

Both routes offer integrity and beauty. What matters most is that the diamond you choose resonates with your story and becomes part of the one you are about to begin.